Heliwet FA 18/20 (Steareth-20)
What is Heliwet FA 18/20?
Heliwet FA 18/20 is a non-ionic surfactant belonging to the group of alcohol ethoxylates. The product is based on a C18 fatty alcohol (typically stearyl alcohol) that has been ethoxylated with an average of 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
The INCI name of Heliwet FA 18/20 is Steareth-20.
Due to its high degree of ethoxylation, Heliwet FA 18/20 has a strongly hydrophilic character and is particularly suitable as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier and solubiliser. It is widely used in:
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Cosmetic emulsions
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Dermatological preparations
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Pharmaceutical formulations
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Water-based technical systems
Thanks to its non-ionic structure, Steareth-20 is compatible with both anionic and cationic ingredients and remains stable across a wide pH range.
Packaging
- Bulk
- IBC
- Drum
- Can
CAS
9005-00-9
INCI-name
Steareth-20
Application
- Technical
- Cosmetic
- Pharmaceutical
How is Steareth-20 produced?
Steareth-20 (Heliwet FA 18/20) is produced via controlled ethoxylation of C18 fatty alcohol with an average of 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
During this process:
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Stearyl alcohol reacts with ethylene oxide
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The number of EO units is precisely controlled
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A non-ionic surfactant with high water solubility is formed
The degree of ethoxylation determines the final HLB value and therefore the application range of the product.
In European production environments, strict safety and quality standards apply, including:
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REACH compliance of raw materials
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Control of residual monomers (such as 1,4-dioxane)
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Batch consistency and traceability
How does Heliwet FA 18/20 work in a formulation?
Heliwet FA 18/20 primarily functions as:
1. Oil-in-water emulsifier
With its high EO content, Steareth-20 stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions. It reduces the surface tension between the oil and water phases, resulting in a stable and homogeneous emulsion.
Example:
In a face cream, Heliwet FA 18/20 ensures that vegetable oils remain evenly distributed without phase separation.
2. Solubiliser
Heliwet FA 18/20 helps solubilise small amounts of hydrophobic substances (such as fragrance oils or essential oils) in aqueous systems.
Example:
In a cleansing lotion, Steareth-20 keeps fragrance components clearly and stably dissolved.
3. Texture enhancer
In cosmetic applications, Heliwet FA 18/20 contributes to:
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Improved spreadability
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Smoother skin feel
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Consistent viscosity
This supports both the technical stability and the sensory properties of the final product.
In which industries is Heliwet FA 18/20 used?
Cosmetics & Personal Care
Heliwet FA 18/20 (Steareth-20) is widely used in:
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Creams and lotions
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Cleansing products
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Hair care products
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Sunscreen formulations
The INCI name makes it suitable for labeling in accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
Pharmaceutical industry
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Dermatological emulsions
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Topical preparations
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Semi-solid formulations
As an excipient, Steareth-20 contributes to stable and reproducible emulsions.
Technical applications
Although primarily positioned for cosmetic use, Heliwet FA 18/20 can also be applied in:
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Water-based emulsions
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Technical dispersions
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Industrial formulations with hydrophilic requirements
Besides Heliwet 18/20, we have other products in our range. Check it out on our insights page!
Frequently asked questions about Heliwet FA 18/20
1. What are the benefits of Heliwet FA 18/20?
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Strong stabilization of O/W emulsions
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Good water solubility
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Compatible with various surfactants
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Widely applicable in cosmetic formulations
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Consistent batch quality
For formulators, it offers flexibility when working with vegetable oils and active ingredients.
2. Are there any considerations when using Steareth-20?
Yes, some key considerations include:
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It is an ethoxylate (not suitable for “ethoxylate-free” claims)
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Not fully natural according to strict certifications (such as COSMOS Natural)
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Not suitable for fully anhydrous systems
For strongly “100% natural” positioned products, an ethoxylate-free alternative may be required.
3. What is the difference between Steareth-20 and other Steareth variants?
The main difference lies in the number of ethylene oxide (EO) units:
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Lower EO number → more lipophilic
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Higher EO number → more hydrophilic
With 20 EO units, Steareth-20 is positioned on the hydrophilic side and is specifically suited for oil-in-water systems.
4. Is Heliwet FA 18/20 suitable for natural formulations?
The fatty alcohol base can be derived from plant-based sources. However, the ethoxylation process means the product is not considered fully natural according to the strictest certification standards.
For “naturally derived” positioning, it may still be applicable depending on the origin of the raw materials.
Chempri: your partner in Heliwet FA 18/20
Chempri supplies Heliwet FA 18/20 (Steareth-20) from Europe with a focus on:
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Reliable deliveries
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Technical support
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Consistent quality
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Product documentation (specifications, SDS, COA)
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Flexible batch sizes
At Chempri, we specialize in the production and supply of high-quality oleochemicals and their derivatives, including Heliwet FA 18/20. Our products are manufactured in our modern production facility and can be tailored to meet the specific requirements of our customers.
Do you have any questions or would you like to place an order directly?
Contact our sales team for more information.
